Kiso Valley Diary
Going through these images of my recent Japan trip made me sad & really happy. I probably didn't know how much of an impact it had on me until I started putting this post together. I spend four nights in Tokyo along with another 2 in Nagoya; the later was a brand new experience. Funny enough, I did not spend much time in the city, but dedicated an entire day at its suburb ⎯ Kiso Valley. It was a highlight.
一直到回了台北開始整理照片，才發現自己對這回日本之旅有多滿意，玩得多盡興。五天在東京，再接兩晚在名古屋看看朋友。上次走訪這中部大城已是十多年前，即便如此，依舊不甘於把太多的時間花在市區。將近零下的星期六早晨，我們裹著大衣、買了火車票，決定到位於長野郊區的木曾古道走跳一番。一整天下來，那沒有高樓的景色成了最佳回報，是令人喜愛的視野，雙手凍到發抖也值得。
About The Location
Magome-juku & Tsumago-juku are two of the most famous places in Kiso Valley. They were both post-towns where travellers rest while walking the ancient 70km trade route; it was the only way between Edo and Kyoto back then. And now, they have put their history to use, with everything preserved so well, visitors get to enjoy the Edo-era stone path, wooden houses, and traditional food treats. There are also several museums, showing information and stories of the country. All that said, Tsumago Post office is the most popular attraction, which has been in business since the 17th century. How cool is that!
妻籠宿與馬籠宿皆為自十七世紀就設立的驛站，是江戶時代十分有名的旅宿聚集街。本來就對具有懷舊風味的街景沒有抵抗力，更別說像這兩處保存如此完善的古街道，彷彿不小心走進某個歷史場景般，氛圍極其幽靜，說是在日本看過最美的一條街也不為過。除了美麗的街景，當然少不了讓人更深入了解的博物館與資料館；開放參觀的古住宅也頗具詩意，可以一探當地過往的生活到底是什麼模樣。不過，其中最受矚目的應該就是「妻籠郵便局」的黑色郵筒，許多遊客在此待上一會兒，寫上幾張明信片，求得就是那獨特的復古郵戳。另外，馬龍宿在地形上坡度大些，若是和我們一樣在雪季前往，下坡地滑，走路要注意（但我們好像太小心了，六百公尺的路程，小步走到好像六公里一樣久，笑）。
Getting There
We took the JR line to Nagiso station from Nagoya, and took about an hour. Afterwards, you can either choose to take the bus or taxi to Magome-juku & Tsumago-juku. For those who prefer the bus, I suggest checking the timetable first, so you wouldn't have to wait for another 40 mins.
從名古屋出發的話，需要搭乘往長野方向的 JR，車程一小時左右。到南木曾站下車再接著轉乘巴士或計程車到妻籠宿＆馬籠宿。選擇巴士的，一定要事先查過班次，不然就會遇到要在車站空等個四十分鐘的窘境。在來之前，有聽說部分人會以建行的方式從馬龍宿走到妻籠宿，大約會花上二到三小時左右，但當天實在是太冷了，這個提案便作罷（笑）
Food to try
The streets are filled with traditional bites such as grilled rice balls, soba noodle, beef skewers, and persimmon pastries. I love the how soba noodle came with a plate of fried mushrooms, which my friend & I ordered another serve because it was that good. Do give the grilled rice ball a try, the sauce and rice tasted well together. Also, the little gift shops are perfect if you want to bring home some snacks.
不管是在妻籠宿還是馬籠宿，街上都有非常多的小吃；像是著名的飛驒牛肉串、五平餅、蕎麥麵與柿子餅等等。個人最喜歡的是蕎麥麵，我們點的是有搭配舞茸姑的套餐，炸得酥酥脆脆的，很對味，吃完立刻再來一盤！其實，先前都以為五平餅是煎餅的一種，一直到這次才發現原來就是烤飯糰；三個為一串，紮實的糯米抹上一層厚厚的味增醬，口感很豐富，一樣很推薦。另外，一路上也有許多適合選購伴手禮的小店面，別錯過。
To think most people visit here during summer/spring season, I loved how the area looks during snow season. The streets and houses looked even more magical. If you're one who loves historical views, small village vibes and beautiful scenery, Magome-juku & Tsumago-juku from Kiso Valley would be the place for you.
雖然許多人都選擇在春夏兩季走訪，但我更愛雪季帶來的白色視野。在這兒花上了半天多的時間，轉角的每一處都像是從明信片躍出般，好令人著迷。倘若山間蜿蜒的巷弄與古色古香的小鎮風情是你傾心的景色，那有機會到日本中部旅遊時，可千萬別忘了木曾古道的妻籠宿與馬籠宿走走看看。誠心推薦。
PHOTOGRAPHY BY YOURS TRULY - SHOT ON FUJI XT2 IN 23MM LENS.
